The Lovely Nenita

Our boat. Worthy of a blog entry all her own. Last year during our visit to Peru, the Nenita was out of commission, awaiting a motor held up in customs too long to be installed before our trip downriver. To be honest, I was beyond disappointed, as an overnight trip on the Amazon is something out of my dreams. We traveled on the Maikai, a speedboat that took us to the Madre Selva field station in four short hours. The boat ride was enjoyable, but nothing compared to being carried along the river by the lovely Nenita.

We took the skiff to the Nenita, which was anchored downriver a few miles, waiting for us in freshly painted splendor. On the first floor are cabins, each with two bunks, a bathroom, a small kitchen, and deck space. On the second floor more cabins, a wonderful dining room with a big round table, and lots of deck space with chairs and hammocks in which to settle and watch the scenery slip by. Chugging down the Amazon River on the Nenita, life is but a dream.

The Nenita docked at the Madre Selva Biological Field Station

Getting some work done in the dining room - Nenita.

John on the Nenita.

Cabin on the Nenita.

Sunset on the Amazon

Fairy Tale Jungle Nights

I’ve noticed a somewhat strange and beautiful phenomenon in the jungle. In the rainy season, the sky is often filled with grey clouds, especially during the nights when the falling rain is a background for lovely, dreamy sleep. But in lucky moments, the clouds open, forming a window into the universe beyond. The view through this window is indescribably beautiful. Few places on earth will you find such a perfect view of the night sky, where even the farthest stars and planets shine so brightly it takes your breath away. On these jungle nights, when I look to the heavens and find that the window is open – that the clouds have broken to allow me to admire some of this night sky – I feel that life is a fairy tale. 

Amazon critter conservation

The Amazon rain forest teems with life – a staggering diversity of flora and fauna. But as we learned from Shauna’s research on black market animal trading, not everyone understands or appreciates the need to protect the organisms that live here. Last year we visited the manatee rescue and rehabilitation center (Instituto de Investigaciones de la Amazonia Peruana) and learned about how manatees are killed for meat and traded live, often leaving orphan babies. The lucky ones end up at this place, where they are lovingly cared for by the Institute staff until they are ready to go back into the wild. 

Yesterday during our visit to the river port town of Bellavista, we were offered a boat tour with a stop at an animal conservation center. We were so happy that we accepted, because the boat ride and destination were a pure delight. The Centro De Custodia Temporal De Fauna is a temporary home to a variety of critters that have been dropped there by police that have confiscated the animals or individuals that have somehow come by animals that need medical care due to injury. While there are cages, most are open and the residents have a bit of freedom to move about. This day, we were introduced to sloths (cutest dang animals ever!), gorgeous parrots, anacondas, enormous turtles, ocelots (male and pregnant female!), and monkeys. We were allowed to cuddle a little bit with the sloths and snakes (photos say it all). It is encouraging to see people doing such work – caring for these creatures and raising awareness about the need for rain forest species conservation. 

Iquitos architecture is beautiful and enduring.

Iquitos features lovely old architecture and dozens of different designs of beautiful tile – remnants of the rubber boom (1890’s to 1930’s), when money poured into the city. Now, many of these grand old buildings are in various states of disrepair, but their beauty can still be admired and appreciated. The tile was imported from Portugal and has proven incredibly durable, much of it still perfect after all this time.

Waking up in Iquitos

Good Morning, Peru.

I wish I could adequately describe the feeling of Iquitos: wonderful (and some not so wonderful) smells and sounds; once gorgeous, but now crumbling, architecture (reminders of the prosperous rubber era); entire families zipping around on Honda scooters; and the warm, soft, air that you practically have to wade through.
When you wake up and are still barely conscious, you quickly realize by the sounds you hear that you are not at home. Even in the city of Iquitos, the critters fill the air with exotic sounds. Even the seriously committed rooster sounds different than our roosters back home. These sounds are somehow comforting and sweet, and make waking up here a distinctly pleasurable experience.

My first thought upon waking was that it is Saturday and at home I would be at the Community Farmers Market, stocking up on menu items for the coming week. To get my market fix, I headed to the Belen Market after breakfast with John and Beverly. Much of what is there is completely unfamiliar to me, and I would have no idea how to prepare it for a meal. It can be a bit traumatic for a vegetarian – we see lots of meat, including fresh water fish, whole chickens (some dead, some alive), turtles, and goat (complete with hooves). The herbs and grains are beautiful, and there are piles of huge limes, pineapples, and avocado that look like heaven to me. A walk through the market is a roller coaster of scents – at one moment it smells good and spicy, the next barely tolerable. The path through the stalls is narrow, and it is extremely important to watch where you step, as mud, garbage, rotten food, blood, and all manner of other things cover the ground. When a vendor accidentally splashed my legs with this muck as he was sweeping his stall I managed to maintain my cool exterior, but on the inside I was freaking out. Guess what? I survived. And, I can’t wait to go back again.

Today was all play, but tomorrow we begin our “City as Text” exercise, with intentional exploration and observation of special places in and near Iquitos. More on that later. It’s time for bed and I can’t wait for morning to come.

Belen Market

Belen

Belen Market, Iquitos

Can’t wait to get back!

Today is December 23rd and in four days I return to Peru. This year we will spend time in the incredible city of Iquitos (can’t wait to visit the Belen market); we will float downriver on the Nenita to the Amazon tributary the Rio Orosa, where we will spend time at the Project Amazonas biological field station working, learning, and visiting friends; and we will then head upland, to the magical Machu Picchu. I’ll keep you posted with stories and photos as time and technology allow.

Rain

The End… but not really

sunset on the Rio Orosa

The End… but not really

I have two days left in Iquitos and I am going to spend them taking it all in, so that I can think of it when I am home, and draw inspiration from this place when I am discouraged by our consumer driven lifestyle. This trip was meant to be, and I am more aware than ever of what is at stake. Losing the Amazon rain forest is unimaginable. Our lifestyles are driving change in this beautiful, colorful world that we will most certainly regret. This blog is not meant to make you feel guilty, but rather to make you aware. Petroleum companies that know no geographical or moral boundaries are in control of our extremely valuable resources. Shortsightedness prevents some from seeing that these resources are much more valuable exactly where they are, performing the ecosystem services that they were perfectly designed to perform.

What I have learned here brings me full circle to the moment in my life that set me on this trajectory: fifth grade science unit on the Amazon Rain Forest. I plan to continue my research on petroleum activity and impacts in the Amazonian Peru, and specifically the training programs that have been designed to empower the native people to protect themselves and this place. I will post periodically to my blog as I learn.

Please feel free to contact me directly with any questions you may have. I hope you are inspired to learn more through exploration of the resources I have provided below.

Resources:

Finer, M., Jenkins, C. N., Pimm, S. L., Keane, B., & Ross, C. (2008) Oil and Gas Projects in the Western Amazon: Threats to wilderness, biodiversity, and indigenous peoples. PLoS ONE 3(8): e2932.

Stetson, George. (2012) Oil Politics and the Indigenous Resistance in the Peruvian Amazon: The rhetoric of modernity against the reality of coloniality. Journal of Environment & Development. 21(1) 76-97.

FECONACO
feconaco.org

Project Amazonas
www.projectamazonas.org

Amazon Watch
www.amazonwatch.org

Back up the river… and a surprise stop

January 8, 2013

One last hike in the jungle

Before breakfast a few of us go on one last jungle hike with Devon. He shows us massive trees that support an entire community of life in their branches, high above us.  He tells us that more species can be found in one acre here than in all of Kentucky.

We leave shortly after breakfast and it’s a beautiful morning on the Amazon. We are delighted to see pink dolphin. As we cruise upriver, back to the chaos that is Iquitos, I have mixed feelings. I am sad to leave the rain forest behind, but looking forward to getting back to “civilization”. I am anxious to internet chat with my husband. The only way my Amazon experience could have been better is if he had been here to have it with me.

Isle de los monos

On the way back, we stop at the island of the monkeys, a monkey rescue center inhabited by various species of monkeys, parrots, a rabbit, and a dog. Almost all of the critters roam freely, and the monkeys are very funny and will climb up and down human visitors and swing from their arms. My fellow travels are delighted and Brittany especially loves the monkeys. When we try to leave, one sweet monkey boards our boat, and the caretaker must come and get him.

Yanashi… return to Comandancia… Anaconda

January 7, 2013

Yanashi

The community of Yanashi (approximately 3000 people) faces the river with a long sidewalk that runs from one end to the other. In the center is a park area that is landscaped with well manicured lawns and pretty flower beds. A woman is working in a bed and a man wearing safety gear uses a weed eater to cut grass. We visit the church, which is simple and beautiful and meet Sister Mary of the Snows, an Ursulane Nun originally from Quebec but obviously at home in Yanashi as she has lived here for 43 years. She is chatty, and talks with Devon about the flood last year, the missionary, gardens, and the recent emergence of young leaders in Yanashi, among many other things.

We next visit the school, which has been built by the Catholic Church. The school serves 600 children from the region, some from Yanashi and some from the neighboring communities. We talk with Mario Guimack Chino, the “Sub-Director” who has been teaching here for 29 years, and he is eager to tell us about his school. There is primary and secondary education here, a staff of 34 (25 teachers), and they are expanding with a new school building and when funds allow, a dormitory to serve a growing population.  Tuition is expected, and Yanashi locals pay 25 soles per year; those from outside the community pay 30 soles. Uniform and school supplies are extra. The school has a generator that is used for administrative work. Two small solar panels stand in the courtyard. We are told that they work well but the batteries after 3-4 years have stopped holding a charge. Science and environmental education are included in curriculum and they do focus on the social impacts of environmental issues, Mario tells us. Approximately 15% of students go on to study at University in Iquitos, and 20% go into technical school. Young leaders are emerging in Yanashi, Mario says, because they are educated and empowered to question the status quo. There was a time when only the elders were leaders. Times are changing in Yanashi. The population has doubled in the past 10 years. Internet is expected by 2014.

Mario also tells us about a water system that was installed by “the Italians” about seven years ago, with intent to bring potable water to Yanashi households. The system includes water towers and other infrastructure, but has never worked.

Trade trip to Comandancia

After our trip to Yanashi, we return to the field station for lunch and then some free time before one trip back to Comandancia for trading. Some our our team take siestas, some go kayaking up the river, and I swim. It is my last chance to swim in the Rio Orosa, tributary to the great Amazon, and it feels damn good.

At 4:00 we head to Comandancia where they are expecting us at their community center. The building is open air, on stilts, and we all fear the floor will not hold our weight. But the community is ready for us with crafts they have made for trading laid out on the floor all around the room. There are woven jute bags and jewelry decorated with seeds, shells, and fish bones. There are wooden carvings and paddles. Everyone is there and the children are especially excited to see Shauna and Chad, who shower them with more gifts. I trade t-shirts for a bag and bracelet featuring a large piece of beetle carapace. To the children I give crayons and matchbox cars, which are a hit. This event (and it is an event), is somehow heartbreaking to me. I can’t really explain why, but perhaps I am just overwhelmed by how simple and sweet the people here are. It is a big deal that we are here to trade for goods they’ve made. And I am impressed by how much time and effort they’ve put into making these crafts to trade and depressed by the fact that I am trading a gently used t-shirt for something that is clearly much more special. I make note that they are pleased with the clothing, but what they really want are D batteries, children’s clothing, and cash.

That evening, we enjoy our last meal at Madre Selva and celebrate with a screening of Anaconda dubbed in Spanish.